ATTILA'S RESTAURANT

2705 Columbia Pike

Like so many businesses that line Columbia Pike, within Atilla’s Restaurant lies a story of an immigrant who came to this country to fulfill his dream of living a good life. When Zulkuf Gezgic arrived without much money, he knew he had to work very, very hard. He started out as a cook at Attila’s restaurant in 1994, and after spending more than two years as a cook, Zulkuf bought the restaurant from Atilla Kan in 1997. Today, he is the owner, manager and chef for Atilla’s Restaurant. 

When Zulkuf was a teenager in Turkey, his oldest brother taught him how to cook, and he quickly saw a way to make money. While still in his teens, he followed his brothers to Israel and worked with them in the restaurant business. Ten years later, seeing more opportunities in America, he left to start on his own adventure. That was 16 years ago. Today, Atilla’s Restaurant is known for its delicious authentic Turkish fare with extremely reasonable prices. It has received accolades from food critics and gained a loyal following among local Pike residents.

You may be in for a surprise when you walk into Atilla’s Restaurant. I was. Most patrons are familiar with the carryout section next door. The restaurant offers a simple elegance, a very well appointed bar, and an extensive menu. The kitchen and wait staff isn’t large.   His wife Serap lends a hand, as well as Eral Ozkan, who has been working in the kitchen at Atilla’s for 35 years.

With the burden of running all aspects of the business by himself, years of hard work shows in Zulkuf’s graying hair and a few extra lines on his 41-year-old face.

“The first four to five years was the hardest,” said Zulkuf.  “I didn’t speak much English, and when you don’t speak English, you want to stay back.” 

But that wasn’t an option. Customers were dwindling, and he inherited a restaurant that desperately needed a face-lift. Learning English the hard (and maybe the best) way, he had to communicate efficiently with contractors to re-model his restaurant, win back customers, and update the menu. And he entrusted the cooking to no one but himself. Today his menu boasts dishes that would make his brothers proud. 

Zulkuf is a man of few words. But listen carefully, and you’ll hear his quiet passion for good food and entertaining. As he offered me “the world’s best hummus” to take home, he insisted that I warm the pita bread before I sampled the hummus (it IS he best I’ve tasted). And if you get hooked on the pita bread as well (not hard to do), you can order it by the bagful to take home. Using more hand gestures than words, he attempted to describe how he makes yogurt from scratch. Then he described Kazandibi, a popular Turkish dessert, as magical – an egg-less milk pudding that is white on one side, and brown on the other.  Nothing, according to Zulkuf, like flan. And it’s delicious.   

The most popular items on Zulkuf’s menu are the Doner Kebab and the Iskender Kebab, both consisting of a mixture of lamb and beef charbroiled on a vertical rotisserie. Made fresh every week, you can only order them on Fridays and Saturdays. The meat and chicken gyros are standard favorite fares, and while the menu is packed with meat dishes, vegetarians can be guaranteed happy bellies with spinach pies, falafel, and hummus sandwiches. Zulkuf’s favorite? Once every few days, he must have a Mediterranean Sandwich, which consists of grilled chicken breast tucked in pita bread with lettuce, tomatoes, cooked onions, mayonnaise, black olives and provolone cheese. He makes it himself, of course, with other “custom” ingredients thrown in. 

There are many menu items that can satisfy your cravings. In a rush? Grab a to-go meal at the carryout.  Have some time? Take a seat in the restaurant.  And you don’t have to prolong your hunger looking for parking – it’s free and readily available next to the restaurant.  Before you leave, check out Atilla’s market to find unique cheeses, sausages, and other hard-to-find Turkish fare. And if you want to have a holiday party at your home AND relax, talk to Zulkuf – he also can cater your next bash.  

What next? He is planning on bringing one of his brothers to take over as chef in his restaurant. Then he’d like to open up a second restaurant in another area. Zulkuf hopes that the revitalization of Columbia Pike will both help his business in a way that supports the great diversity that the Pike now enjoys.

Zulkuf likes to end his day at his bar enjoying a drink with a few friends, and he enjoys meeting new people.  When you stop by, be sure to ask him for a taste of his hummus.

Global Dining on the Pike is written by Zuraidah Hoffman, a long-time Pike resident, communications consultant, and foodie. If you have suggestions or comments, email them to zuraidah.hoffman@verizon.net. Also, check out her website at www.zuraidahhoffman.com

DAMA RESTAURANT AND café

For the love of kitfo, people travel for miles to eat at Dama Restaurant and Café. Delicious minced meat seasoned with an herbed butter sauce concocted with a perfect blend of spices. Served with small mounds of vegetables and injera to sop up all the juicy goodness. No utensils please. Here you eat like the Ethiopians do. And you don’t just come to eat. You come to talk and sit for a while.

Meet the Dama clan pictured here: standing from the left are Hailu, Almaz, and Amsale, and seated is Kelem. Married to Hailu, Amsale is soft-spoken, petite and is the quiet force that keeps the business going. Kelem is the undisputed kitchen boss and is responsible for the all-important spiced butter that makes kitfo the most popular dish. Almaz is the baker who creates mouth-watering pastries, cakes and cookies in the café. Then there’s Hailu, the strong yet gentle persona who brings it all together. And they ALL pitch in the kitchen when it gets busy.

Located at the Eastern end of Columbia Pike, Dama Restaurant and Café sits near the new Air Force Memorial. It’s a great location for those traveling in and out of the city via I-395.

“I always wanted it to be more than just a restaurant,” said Hailu. “Here, it’s about friendship and extended families. It’s gratifying. It’s a place where people will come to discuss everything and it energizes me.”

The Dama siblings came to America more than 25 years ago with the restaurant business in their blood. Their father prepared food for the Ethiopian Air Force. An older sister ran an Ethiopian restaurant on Capitol Hill in the 80s, and the Dama family continues to be well known within the Ethiopian community. They give credit to their faith in God for the decision to open Dama Restaurant and Market in 1999. The café – a welcoming sunny place with a great coffee bar shown at the left, was opened in 2002. Their strong family values made it a natural partnership to do it together.

“I am most proud that I am working with my family as my partners,” said Amsale. “Having trust in each other is the key to our success. It’s not all about money, it’s about the children, and the ability to work with our family.” When I arrived for our interview, Amsale’s teenage daughter (a budding chef) was behind the pastry counter with Kelem’s daughter. Kelem was deep in conversation when Amsale pulled her away. In a well-worn apron, Almaz was gracious, but was clearly too busy to sit down and chat. Professionally trained at L’Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda, Md. , Almaz is busy with her next challenge: Re-opening the next-door Dama Diner and turning it into a non-Ethiopian food establishment serving simple foods like wraps, sandwiches, panini and salads.

The café is a place to watch a football game (Hailu is a rabid Redskins fan), or relax and have a few sugar-dusted almond cookies with your freshly roasted Ethiopian coffee. Or come for breakfast, one of their busiest times of the day. In the restaurant, feast your eyes and stomach on traditional Ethiopian dishes. The menu at Dama Restaurant is not lengthy, allowing them to specialize in about twenty dishes. The meals they serve are not modified to suit their American homeland, and remain unmistakably Ethiopian. In addition to kitfo, other traditional dishes such as shiro (ground split chick peas with cheese in berbere sauce) and derek tibs (lamb chunks fried with onion and jalapeno peppers) populate their menu. And for less adventurous children, on the menu is an all-time favorite: Spaghetti.

The Dama family has created a second home for many people. The atmosphere reminds you of being around family friends. Just don’t count on getting a glass of wine. The family agreed early on not to apply for a liquor license. “People come here for the ambiance and the food,” said Amsale. “Because there is no alcohol, people can be themselves, make friends and have great conversations.”

What next? They would like to grow and diversify their clientele. They would like to see a more diverse community come in the door to join in on the friendships, conversations and good food.

“It’s a great dining experience, and such a healthy family-friendly place to come to,” said Amsale.” In addition to offering traditional exotic foods from different regions in , Hailu reminded me, “We have the best kitfo outside of Ethiopia!”

Judging by the clientele, I think many would agree. And if you do too, don’t forget to tell them on your way out, it will make their day.

Another opportunity to meet the Dama clan and sample their delicious offerings is at the Taste of the Pike--A Multicultural Festival!, September 20 from noon to 7:00 pm on the grounds of the Arlington Mill Community Center , 4975 Columbia Pike.

Global Dining on the Pike is written by Zuraidah Hoffman, a long-time Pike resident, communications consultant, and foodie. If you have suggestions or comments, email them to zuraidah.hoffman@verizon.net. Also, check out her website at www.zuraidahhoffman.com