Columbia Pike, "The World in a Zip-Code," Offers Many Exciting Restaurant Choices as Well as Interesting Ethnic Markets

In the mood for delicious Thai cuisine? How about the delicacies of Ethiopia, or El Salvador, or the Mediterranean? Or, perhaps a hearty Italian meal, a tasty Bolivian snack, or good old American diner food? Or, if you prefer to cook at home you can shop for all kinds of unique and exciting ingredients at the Pike’s ethnic markets which feature Hispanic, Asian, Moroccan, Ethiopian, Mediterranean, Indian, Pakistani, Bengali, Middle Eastern, Arabic, German foods and more. Experience the flavors of the world without leaving 22204! For a listing of Pike area restaurants and ethnic markets click on the links at the lower left. Read about Lost Dog Cafe below. For previously covered restaurants click here.

Global Dining on the Pike

A Series of Features by Zuraidah Hoffman

Lost Dog Cafe
2920 Columbia Pike
703-553-7770
www.lostdogcafe.com
Free delivery, Parking available in The Halstead

At long last, Lost Dog Café on Columbia Pike has arrived. After spending time in Malaysia rediscovering my own soul-satisfying gastronomical roots, I recently ventured out for my first (and second) pint of cold ale and a few slices of pizza. Weeks of international travel made this experience excellent global dining.

Lost Dog Café opened its doors to us over Memorial Day weekend in one of the new retail spaces located on the ground-level of The Halstead – the new mixed-use development that plays a trail-blazing role in the ongoing story of Columbia Pike’s revitalization.

Many readers are already well acquainted with the Lost Dog Café located on Washington Blvd., in the Westover area of Arlington. South Arlington folks can now zip over to The Halstead for our Lost Dog fare. And you’ll find it all – the familiar good pizza, 52 kinds of hot sandwiches, pastas, salads, and of course, the extensive global beer selection.

“This location was our first choice,” said co-owner Jim Barnes (pictured here to the right of partner Mike Danner). “We think our decision is paying off.” Accompanying Jim Barnes and Mike Danner on this adventure are co-owners Mike Barnes (Jim’s brother), and Wes Clough. They all went to Yorktown High School in Arlington and worked at the original Lost Dog Café in North Arlington. That was about twelve years ago. Until recently, they all continued to work at the original Lost Dog in various capacities. Now, they all manage the new Lost Dog Café during nights and weekends (both Mikes and Jim have full-time day jobs) and Wes is the manager Monday through Friday during the daytime.

Hometown story

“They all showed up to work for us when they were about sixteen years old,” said Pam McAlwee, who together with Ross Underwood, co-owns the original Lost Dog Café on Washington Blvd.” Like all the kids that worked for Pam and Ross, they were treated like extended family. Many of the employees also talked about opening up their own restaurant, but these four hatched a real plan. After years of thinking and talking about it, they began formal discussions to open the Lost Dog Café franchise two years ago, and soon enough everything started to fall into place.

“These guys put a real business plan together, they got their ducks in a row,” continued Pam. “Ross guided them and we told them that the plan had to be solid for the restaurant to succeed.”

“Once The Halstead on Columbia Pike was looking for retail tenants, we quickly started negotiations with them,” explained Wes Clough.

Knowing first-hand how hard and taxing opening and running a restaurant can be, Pam couldn’t help but worry when they made a commitment to open a second Lost Dog Café. “Ross and I want them to succeed for many reasons, but more so because they’re good guys, and they put their heart and soul into it,” said Pam. “I would do anything to help them, and I know they would do anything to help us. We’re in this together.”

To help boost their staffing and work out the kinks, Pam worked in the kitchen for the first few days after they opened, and stayed to help for the next two weeks. And it seems that the Lost Dog family is never far away. Jessica Lovelace, Yorktown High School alum and artist of paintings at the original Lost Dog Café painted the stunning canine murals in the restaurant.

“A month before we opened, we had bare walls and concrete,” Mike Danner added. “We worked day and night, and Wes built all the booths and the bar in the main room.”

Two days before Memorial Day weekend, the liquor license came through and they decided it was time. On opening day all of them washed dishes, bussed and waited on tables, cooked and cleaned. They had to get creative with signage and staffing. But through word-of-mouth, drive-by sightings, and the rumor mill, people walked in that first day, and haven’t stopped coming back. And they want you to know, that if you can’t come to them, they will deliver to your doorstep.

For those who are not familiar with the Lost Dog menu, popular items are too many to list. Many associate Lost Dog with great pizzas, but the sandwich selection is also pretty impressive. The Barnes brothers go for the Big Dog sandwich – grilled chicken breast, melted mozzarella and feta cheeses, garlic mayo, lettuce and pico de gallo stuffed in a warm pita. Mike Barnes likes his with Dog Collars (Tabasco flavored baked onion rings). Mike Danner enjoys the Muttly – warm pita stuffed with grilled chicken breast, pesto, tomatoes, spinach, melted provolone cheese and basil. Wes enjoys the mixed Italian – Genoa salami, hickory ham, pepperoni, provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato and onions with mayo, oil and vinegar. You also can choose from many dinner salads, and soups, chili, and loads of pasta dishes. They will cater to finicky eaters of all ages, and I would also make a special trip just for the desserts.

Final word?

“People have told me that we should be proud of ourselves and that we’re here,” said a smiling Mike Danner. “It’s great that we’re doing it together.”

“We thought that the residents of South Arlington wanted a Lost Dog location closer to them and since we opened they have proven that to be the case,” said Mike Barnes. “We feel embraced by the community and we look forward to the future we will play on Columbia Pike.”

Cheers to that!

Global Dining on the Pike is written by Zuraidah Hoffman, a long-time Pike resident, communications consultant, and foodie. If you have suggestions or comments, email them to zuraidah.hoffman@verizon.net. Also, check out her website at www.zuraidahhoffman.com

Prior Features...

To Market, To Market ---Now that Columbia Pike’s Giant Food has closed its doors while the new Penrose Square is constructed, it seems timely to expand our shopping horizons. That emergency gallon of milk can be a quick trip to the 7/11, but there are more interesting markets on the Pike that can spice up your kitchen pantry, and motivate you to venture beyond the four corners of meatloaf.

So instead of writing a feature about a restaurant, I’d like to share with you some of the markets that exist within our community. In the coming months, I’ll scour through a few shelves, and of course introduce you to the owners. Most of them have an international flavor, and if you aren’t eating out as much these days, you can still enjoy global dining at home with the help of some of these markets. If you are not already hooked on these markets, you will be amazed at their breadth, quality, and affordability. You will find that you don’t have to go far to dive into the diverse and delicious richness of our world. Here’s just a sample...

German Gourmet

5838 Columbia Pike

www.german-gourmet.com

Did you know we don’t have to venture North to that popular German bakery when you want German treats? Just drive a few minutes West on the Pike. You’ll find everything you need for a Spring-time Oktoberfest. An impressive selection of German wines and beers for the thirsty, fresh meats, bratwursts, and wieners for the grill, delicious cheeses, breads and prepared side-dishes to excite those taste buds, and a huge array of cakes, desserts and pastries for the sweet tooth. You also won’t be able to resist browsing through many other popular German items (like spaetzle!) on their shelves.

Aladdin Halal Market

2524 Columbia Pike

On my first visit to this store, I was reminded of the small Middle-Eastern markets that are scattered throughout London. But better (and warmer). There are so many food products from around the world (not just the Middle East). The customer service is excellent and the butcher will cut your order of fresh lamb, goat, chicken, etc., --

Halal of course – exactly to your specification. Plus, for fans of organic meat, there is a special delivery of organic chicken on Fridays. And don’t forget to try the flat Afghani bread – delicious!

Food Star Market

Corner of Columbia Pike and George Mason

What a find! Admittedly a little scruffy on the outside, but lots of great deals on the inside. Great produce, and familiar food items you need for your pantry, PLUS all the ingredients you need to make those fabulous tamales and platanos fritos you’ve been craving. You’ll need to be patient if it’s your first time, not everything is easy to locate – but once you do, you’ll discover many food items you’ll want to try.

Atilla’s Turkish Grocery

2705 Columbia Pike

I wrote about Atilla’s a few months ago, and I’ll encourage you to do this: On your lunch break, grab some delicious hummus and warm pita bread from Atilla’s carryout section, then stroll into the market next door. A tiny little market, but packed to the brim with such unique cheeses, sausages, olives, and other Turkish fare. I saw pomegranate juice sold by the litre at the fraction of the price I’ve seen at other places, and so many other interesting and delicious looking foods. This is a place to explore…

Lideta Gebeya

2630 Columbia Pike

There are loads of Ethiopian markets up and down the Pike. Lideta Gebeya, located near the Ski Chalet, offers excellent house made Injera, Ethiopian spices and other Ethiopian goods.

Bangkok 54 Oriental Food Market

2927 Columbia Pike

Many of us are familiar with the restaurant, but have you entered the market located next door? Traveling to Eden Village to get my Asian food supplies can be tough – often it’s like shopping at Tyson’s Corner during the Christmas season. So I’ve gone local. I’ve come to learn that this market has just about everything I need. The produce is fresh, the selection of sauces and pastes are impressive, and they even carry a few favorite Malaysian items in their freezer like roti pratha/chanai (fried flat bread), and Milo, a malted chocolate drink I grew up with. An added bonus: if you feel the need to buy that roast chicken for dinner, try the market – they have a large selection of prepared foods that include many items found on the menu from the restaurant. My friends tell me that I have to check out the Oriental Market at 5001 Columbia Pike (at the corner of Columbia Pike and S. Dinwiddie St.) which also has a large selection of Asian foods (including fresh tofu!) and also a few aisles where you could swear you had just walked into a Latino Mercado.

Farmer’s Market!

Pike Park

Sundays, 9:00 am to 1:00 pm.

If you haven’t already heard, the popular Columbia Pike Farmer’s Market is back this week. The market will re-open for its 15th year on Sunday, May 3, and as always, there will be fresh, ripe produce coming in from local farmers. You also will be able to buy breads, pastries, coffee, listen to music, and much more. It’s a great gathering place to meet neighbors who have been hibernating all winter, and a great way to spring into Summer. Make a family trip every Sunday from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm to Pike Park, at the corner of S. Walter Reed Dr. and Columbia Pike. Have breakfast at the market!

Rincome Thai Cuisine
3030 Columbia Pike
Arlington, VA 22204
www.rincomethai.com

Did you know that we have a real, live “Cheers” bar on Columbia Pike? Complete with a cast of characters who stake ownership to bar stools and hold court for hours in the evenings? O.K., it’s a little different than the 80’s Boston TV bar. For one thing, this watering hole is above ground, framed by large windows lined with orchids and decades-old jade plants, with delicious smells of Asian food wafting from the kitchen. Sisters Mihee Pansiri and Miok An own the place and they are the ones that tend the bar. But, just like Cheers, if you are a regular, everybody really does know your name.

“I know people don’t normally think to come to a Thai restaurant to sit at the bar and have a few drinks, but many people have been coming here for years to do just that,” said Mihee, the owner and hands-on manager of Rincome.

It’s contagious – once you meet Mihee, you can’t help but smile and engage in good conversation. She’s warm, friendly, and best of all, she’s very sincere about wanting to make your stay comfortable. If you stay awhile or come back, she will remember you the next time she sees you…so be prepared for a warm greeting, a quick hug, a question about how things are going.

It’s been that way for more than 20 years at Rincome, which has a loyal following and always makes room for new patrons looking for that special Thai restaurant experience. Mihee and her former husband opened Rincome in 1985. Back then, the Days Inn Columbia Pike was the Cherry Blossom Motel. Rincome took over the lease from a Chinese restaurant which had only lasted six months.

Mihee moved to the United States with her family from Korea in 1973. After moving the family several times around the country, Mihee’s father finally decided to stay in Arlington. Her first job as a teenager at the Bailey’s Crossroads Krispy Kreme seems far removed from where she is today but that’s where she met her ex-husband, originally from Thailand. Today, Mihee lives just minutes from the restaurant and is a steadfast supporter of the Pike community. Mihee says their experience working in four-star hotel restaurants gave them expertise and confidence needed to run a great restaurant. But, more than that, Thai Rincome is another product of the American dream—the simple desire to own a business and be “the boss.”

These days, Thai restaurants are everywhere. But, each has its own special flavor. Rincome is a beloved fixture on Columbia Pike because it never fails to delight…everyone knows that it is a warm, gracious, and affordable place to eat great food, hang out at the bar, or just pick up some Thai food “ to-go” while making your way home from work. The clientele hasn’t changed much over the years, and customers from decades ago still come for the good food and good company. Well-traveled government employees come here for a taste of the Far East as do military personnel who have been stationed around the world.

You will find many familiar Thai dishes on the Rincome menu, plus other popular Chinese/Asian dishes that have been added to meet the demands and tastes of its loyal clientele. As a soup lover I was pleased to find at least eight different “big bowl” soups to choose from. Mihee’s favorite meal on the menu is the Pad Thai (an all time favorite among patrons as well) and the Drunken Noodles. She tells me that kids love the Rincome Chicken, a crispy chicken served with a sweet and tangy tamarind sauce and that the Chicken with Basil gets rave reviews as well.

It’s a ‘good personality’ restaurant,” said Mihee. “Either myself or my sister are always here, and our workers make the effort to know our customers.”

You can feel the promise of friendship by observing regulars who walk in the door. The staff knows what regulars like to eat, drink, and where they like to sit. Five specialty cooks are always at-the-ready in the kitchen to quickly cook up dishes, and most have been at Rincome for many years.

The most satisfying aspect of running a restaurant is why Mihee and her sister are successful restaurant owners today. They love the people, making friends, and building a community of people who connect with each other. While she declares that no day is a bad day, she reflects on a different kind of hardship during the early years.

“The hardest thing for me was not being able to spend time with my kids when they were young,” said Mihee. “My daughter always considered this restaurant her mom and dad’s real home.”

But as with most kids whose parents work hard to put food on the table and guarantee a higher education for their children, her son and daughter are now successful. They are appreciative of their upbringing, and not surprisingly have an appreciation for good food. Being a successful restaurant owner is gratifying, but her children’s success is what Mihee is most proud of. Her businessman son lives in Bangkok with his father, and her daughter is a lawyer at the Department of Veterans Affairs.

Mihee and her family are always dishing out delicious food at the Pike’s annual Blues Festival and Taste of the Pike. While business continues to be good at Rincome, Mihee hopes that the all the revitalization efforts on the Pike will bring many new residents to the area and customers and friends to her restaurant. Meanwhile, Mihee claims to make a fantastic martini. Just remember, if you sit at the bar, don’t be surprised to get a sharp look from a regular who may have dibs on the bar stool you’re perched on. Swap seats, introduce yourself, and make a new friend!

ABI’S AZTECA GRILL AND BAR
3005 Columbia Pike
703-979-3579
www.abirestaurant.com/main.html

“It’s like you’ve been let in on a good secret,” said longtime Arlington resident Ken Koontz, when asked how he would describe Abi’s to a newcomer. He adds, “Abi’s is a very welcoming, family friendly place with authentic Salvadorian food.” “I always bring out-of-town visitors to Abi’s, because it represents the Columbia Pike and South Arlington flavor,” said Steve Schaible, another Arlington resident and Abi’s fan.

If you’re longtime patrons like Ken and Steve, you would probably call out “hello” to Sandra (co-owner) and know the servers by name. Chances are you won’t really have to look through the menu because you know what you want to eat. You may also see a few neighbors. If this is your first time, you’ll notice colorful, interesting hats lining the wall, each labeled with its country of origin. The dining room is simple yet inviting, the walls are covered in murals, and music is always playing. The bar is well stocked, and a wide-screen TV is almost always on with soccer games that keep bar patrons happy.

Tony Lara and Abigail Valle opened the restaurant in 1986. Named after Abigail, the business began when Mama Abi began making pupusas in her home for the Salvadorian community. The restaurant was the next step when her Arlington home-based business grew too big. After a very successful run of nearly 20 years, Abi and Tony decided to sell the restaurant, but wanted to make sure it remained in good hands. So, they turned to three loyal employees – Sandra Claros, Carmen Mendoza and Israel Triminio – who bought the restaurant in 1994, and have managed to retain all the qualities that makes Abi’s a longtime Arlington favorite.

A natural fit, but sometimes still hard to believe. “Sometimes I feel like I’m dreaming, and don’t believe I own it. It’s a dream come true for me,” said Sandra. The other two nod and laugh in agreement. Israel considers Abi’s his second home, and Carmen cherishes the fact that she’s her own boss.

As we all sit around a table for our interview, it’s clear the three have good chemistry. When invited to take a turn down memory lane, I learned that Mama Abi taught Carmen how to cook when she started working at Abi’s 23 years ago. Carmen taught Sandra the same when she came three years later. Israel has been manning the grill for fifteen years and is a familiar sight behind the bar. They all pitch in on busy days and nights and appreciate what it takes to keep the restaurant running.

“I hear many stories about businesses where the partners don’t get along,” said Carmen. “I am very lucky, and proud that we have created a strong partnership and family with each other.”

The three co-owners chide each other and share secret jokes, as I ask them questions about the challenges of running a restaurant. Sandra, the business-minded one of the three, says the hardest thing for her is making sure employees are happy, and that the kitchen and bar are always stocked. Carmen shares her recurring bad dreams about not making enough refried beans or soup for the evening crew before she leaves for the day, and every customer that evening orders beans and soup. It always is just a bad dream.

While all cook in the kitchen, Carmen’s almost shy demeanor belies her kitchen prowess – she prepares all the soups, pupusas, and the refried beans for the kitchen crew. Her favorite dish on the menu is Sopa de Res, or oxtail soup. Sandra loves the fajitas, and Israel’s favorite is Sopa de Mariscos, a creamy seafood soup. Other popular dishes are pupusas, of course, which Sandra says people order even if they’ve ordered a full meal, because they can’t come to Abi’s without having at least one. I asked the two friendly patrons Ken and Steve what they liked best on the menu. Ken’s new favorite is Milanesa de Pollo, a breaded chicken breast served with two eggs, plaintain and rice. Steve enjoys this too, and also often orders Plato Tipico, a hearty meal of New York steak, slices of avacado, cuajada (cheese) and fried plaintain, served with rice and beans.

Families love Abi’s because kids are welcome, they like the food, and the bill doesn’t break the bank. Kids can enjoy the same food their parents do – pupusas, tacos, enchiladas, cheese quesadillas – just in smaller portions (and prices). The menu also offers kid’s steak and kid’s chicken, all served with rice and beans, or a side of vegetables, which Sandra herself will be happy to bring out for the little ones.

All three co-owners are proud that their clientele is diverse and loyal. Sandra added that she’s proud when large groups choose Abi’s for corporate luncheons or meetings when there are many other fine dining choices in Arlington. And she’s so pleased that her customers call her directly when something is not right. Said Sandra, grinning, “Instead of deciding not to come back when something is wrong, they tell me so I can fix it."

And they do come back. Some have come back as teenagers with their dates – and Sandra will tease them with stories involving high chairs and tantrums. So if you’re trying out Abi’s for the first time, you could feel like you’ve walked in on a large family gathering. That’s because you have.

ATTILA’S RESTAURANT
2705 Columbia Pike
703-920-8255
www.atillasrestaurant.com

Like so many businesses that line Columbia Pike, within Atilla’s Restaurant lies a story of an immigrant who came to this country to fulfill his dream of living a good life. When Zulkuf Gezgic arrived without much money, he knew he had to work very, very hard. He started out as a cook at Attila’s restaurant in 1994, and after spending more than two years as a cook, Zulkuf bought the restaurant from Atilla Kan in 1997. Today, he is the owner, manager and chef for Atilla’s Restaurant.

When Zulkuf was a teenager in Turkey, his oldest brother taught him how to cook, and he quickly saw a way to make money. While still in his teens, he followed his brothers to Israel and worked with them in the restaurant business. Ten years later, seeing more opportunities in America, he left to start on his own adventure. That was 16 years ago. Today, Atilla’s Restaurant is known for its delicious authentic Turkish fare with extremely reasonable prices. It has received accolades from food critics and gained a loyal following among local Pike residents.

You may be in for a surprise when you walk into Atilla’s Restaurant. I was. Most patrons are familiar with the carryout section next door. The restaurant offers a simple elegance, a very well appointed bar, and an extensive menu. The kitchen and wait staff isn’t large. It includes his wife Serap, Yildiz who works the dining room, and Eral Ozkan, who has been working in the kitchen at Atilla’s for 35 years. (Yildiz and Eral are pictured here with Zulkuf).

With the burden of running all aspects of the business by himself, years of hard work shows in Zulkuf’s graying hair and a few extra lines on his 41-year-old face.

“The first four to five years was the hardest,” said Zulkuf. “I didn’t speak much English, and when you don’t speak English, you want to stay back.”

But that wasn’t an option. Customers were dwindling, and he inherited a restaurant that desperately needed a face-lift. Learning English the hard (and maybe the best) way, he had to communicate efficiently with contractors to re-model his restaurant, win back customers, and update the menu. And he entrusted the cooking to no one but himself. Today his menu boasts dishes that would make his brothers proud.

Zulkuf is a man of few words. But listen carefully, and you’ll hear his quiet passion for good food and entertaining. As he offered me “the world’s best hummus” to take home, he insisted that I warm the pita bread before I sampled the hummus (it IS he best I’ve tasted). And if you get hooked on the pita bread as well (not hard to do), you can order it by the bagful to take home. Using more hand gestures than words, he attempted to describe how he makes yogurt from scratch. Then he described Kazandibi, a popular Turkish dessert, as magical – an egg-less milk pudding that is white on one side, and brown on the other. Nothing, according to Zulkuf, like flan. And it’s delicious.

The most popular items on Zulkuf’s menu are the Doner Kebab and the Iskender Kebab, both consisting of a mixture of lamb and beef charbroiled on a vertical rotisserie. Made fresh every week, you can only order them on Fridays and Saturdays. The meat and chicken gyros are standard favorite fares, and while the menu is packed with meat dishes, vegetarians can be guaranteed happy bellies with spinach pies, falafel, and hummus sandwiches. Zulkuf’s favorite? Once every few days, he must have a Mediterranean Sandwich, which consists of grilled chicken breast tucked in pita bread with lettuce, tomatoes, cooked onions, mayonnaise, black olives and provolone cheese. He makes it himself, of course, with other “custom” ingredients thrown in.

There are many menu items that can satisfy your cravings. In a rush? Grab a to-go meal at the carryout. Have some time? Take a seat in the restaurant. And you don’t have to prolong your hunger looking for parking – it’s free and readily available next to the restaurant. Before you leave, check out Atilla’s market to find unique cheeses, sausages, and other hard-to-find Turkish fare. And if you want to have a holiday party at your home AND relax, talk to Zulkuf – he also can cater your next bash.

What next? He is planning on bringing one of his brothers to take over as chef in his restaurant. Then he’d like to open up a second restaurant in another area. Zulkuf hopes that the revitalization of Columbia Pike will both help his business in a way that supports the great diversity that the Pike now enjoys.

Zulkuf likes to end his day at his bar enjoying a drink with a few friends, and he enjoys meeting new people. When you stop by, be sure to ask him for a taste of his hummus.